Sailing, sailing, sailing That’s why we live the life we do, so that we can untie the lines and explore the world in our own backyard. From Sept 2015-October 2016 we sailed with a 2 year old and a baby from Vancouver to Mexico, across to Hawaii, across to Alaska and then down, Read More
Flynn Cove was lovely. We have been branching out from Charlie’s Charts (our only guide book) as it lists very few anchorages, and just heading for ones that look reasonable on the charts. Flynn cove was one of those. As evening set in a killer whale entered the bay and fished the shores. We could hear the rest of the pod fishing the outer side of the island that marks the entrance to the Cove. Early the next morning Kolby got out of bed to go fishing. He gently woke Fynn up to ask her if she wanted to go with him, as she said she did last night but got a “No Daddy!” and a roll over in bed. But when she heard the dinghy going into the water she was up in a flash and the little fisher had her rod and was ready to go! They spent the first hour playing with the little rod, pulling in herring, and the second hour pulling in 3 good sized pinks. I was super excited to see our fish salmon come aboard. I immediately started filleting them as we had to leave by 9:30 am to meet Ken and Tia at the dock at Gustavas at noon. I was halfway through the second fish when the knife slipped and went right through the backbone and into the back of my left index finger. I knew right away that it wasn’t a little cut. Grasping my finger tightly to stem the bleeding, Kolby asked if I needed some paper towel. No paper towel, this is first aid kit territory. As he was hauling out the first aid I experimented with my finger. Initially I though I had sliced through the tendon, but I was getting some extension in the tip so maybe I hadn’t… I uncurled my hand from the finger and immediately felt sick. My finger was hanging at an odd angle from my second knuckle. I got all dizzy and nauseas and couldn’t think straight. It took my a minute before I realized I was in shock. I immediately went into the recovery position and felt much better. After that I was able to think straight. After we had was the cut in water and iodine and wrapped it in gauze we had to decide where to go. Hoonah was closer and a bigger town, but I was sure I would flying to Junuea or Vancouver for the repair so Gustavas was the better choice. It was also where help was waiting. The two kids are a lot to manage in these types of situations. Decision made we set about making a splint out of some of the thermo-mold material from my OT days. This made a lovely splint which kept my finger straight and comfortable as we headed to Gustavas. I was able to nurse Bowen and put him down for a nap before I called my Mom on the sat phone. I was feeling pretty sorry for myself at this point as I knew this would impact our plans, and I may miss out on Glacier Bay. Mom helped me book a flight to Seattle, where they could pick me up, and she called our travel insurance company to get the low down. They told me I would have to go to the clinic in Gustavas to determine the closest place that could complete the surgery. We pulled into the dock and didn’t wait long before Ken and Tia arrived. Kolby and I headed out to the clinic after lunch and my finger was feeling pretty comfy, so I was happy that the Nurse Practitioner took my word on the injury and didn’t open the splint. She did put a call into the hand surgeon in Juneau who told her to close the wound and that I could get it fixed when I get home. When we told her that wouldn’t be until October, the surgeon told her he could see me on Monday (today was Friday) and do the surgery next Wednesday or Thursday, as it was ‘just a finger!’ But it was my finger!!! After discussing briefly with the NP and Kolby we decided it would be much more reasonable for Bowen and I to fly out to Vancouver for the surgery as the timeframe would be faster, my parents were around to help with Bowen, and waiting in Juneau with Bowen would just be too awkward. So Bowen and I flew out that night from Gustavas on a first class ticket to Seattle. Huge thanks to my parents for driving down to Seattle to pick us up at midnight. We met some really cool people on the trip and were asleep at my parents around 3am. The next morning (being Saturday) we headed to the emergency at VCH where the amazing Dr. Barret Rush smoothed the waters and helped make my 6 hour stay at emerg a breeze. By Sunday at 5:30 pm I was back aboard Asunto, but with a very sore finger. It will have to be splinted for 6 weeks to let the tendon heal. Alaska has become split- BTF and ATF.
Hoonah is a little secluded town, with a large population of Tglint (say CLING-it) locals. The houses are mostly derelict, but enough are painted in bright cheerful colours that makes the town look happy on the surface. Not that we got too deep into the local vibe here. The natives are reserved, not necessarily unfriendly, but indifferent to us. We met one family from Oregon that comes here for the summer to fish and we ended up having dinner in their cabin, salmon of course! The fishermen were hauling in all sorts of salmon, mostly pinks and silvers and heaps of halibut. We asked a bunch of questions to everyone who was filleting halibut until we felt like we had a pretty good idea of how to go about catching these monsters. Our helpful Oregon family gave us their salmon carcasses for bait. It ended up slicing off the meat left behind and using it to make salmon burgers. It felt weird but we hadn’t caught any salmon and were craving some fish so… The burgers were delicious. Most of our time in Hoonah was eaten up with groceries (we had to stock up for two weeks with Kolby’s parents), laundry, internet and securing our permit for Glacier Bay. This turned out to be a bit of a gong show and Kolby had to twice go up at midnight to the local bar to get on line and apply for the permit. Guess he got a bit of local flavour up there! Hoonah is basically a cruise ship town, where people either a) don’t work b) work only on days when the cruise ship is in town or c) work regular hours. I would say the majority fall into categories a and b. We were pretty knackered when we rolled off the dock and headed to Flynn cove, 10 nm away.
We left early in the morning to get to Tenake with time to explore. Fynn woke up when we were hauling the prawn trap. She just doesn’t sleep through the noises like she used to. Regardless of the tired toddler we were stoked to see about 20 prawns in the trap. That is a big haul for us so far. Where have all the prawns go? My guess is commercial overfishing. I remember these huge hauls of 40 plus prawns when I was a kid. We pulled onto the dock at Tenake after dropping our crab trap among the other traps in the bay. We arrived at the same time as Bob, another Catalina 50, working as a charter boat in SE Alaska. We were invited on board to investigate the layout. As there are only 24 or so of those boats made it is fun to see another in person. Bob looks like it would be lovely to charter. The owners make great hosts and Bob is decked out for cruising Alaska in comfort. The charter doesn’t come cheap though- check it out yourself www.soundsailing.com. Tenake is a super cute tiny little row town, complete with post office, school and library. All for a town of only 40 year round residents! The owner of the Part(y)-Time Bakery is now employed at the post office, but he still opened shop to sell me a loaf of bread he had baked fresh that morning. He also had a big plate of cookies on the desk at the post office for everyone to enjoy.
The warm springs were a different experience though. They are built into a bath house and come bubbling up through a rock fissure into a concrete tub. The bath house has women hours and men hours and is nude only. The water is hot – I would guess 105F and there is a cold hose to cool you off. I didn’t love it like I loved Baranoff but it was still an interesting experience. Fynn’s favourite part was the mile long walk from the marina to the town centre. The whole path was lined with berries. There were mostly salmon berries, but also blueberries, thimble berries, high bush cranberries and raspberries overgrown from gardens. The crabbing was outstanding here and we became a mini crab processing plant at night as the kids slept. Kolby would crack them in half with an axe, I would clean them then we would cook them, cool them and package them for the freezer. Kolby and Fynn also went out fishing for a halibut but came back with a huge cabezon. I filleted it and it cooked like lingcod but it gave me nightmares that night with it’s huge head staring up at me. We won’t be keeping another one of those! Before we left the dock we went for a hike to the suspension bridge, built in the 1970s by the Department of US Highways. We aren’t sure why it’s there but its cool. Along the way we found a old cemetery from the 1910-1930, tucked up high in the woods. This led to some complicated discussions for little Fynn – ‘why baby dead?’ ‘Maybe baby got sick and died.’ ‘Why?’ Good question Fynn, why do babies die?
I have been working on perfecting my fish and chips with proper deep fried fish. We enjoyed attempt number three in a peaceful little cove just outside of Tenake.
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