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We didn’t go far today, only 10 nm to Elle Cove and Hidden Falls. Did you know a large portion of Alaskan wild caught salmon is actually raised in aquaculture pens until they are abut 10 inches long? We didn’t, so we found our visit to the salmon farm at Hidden Fall very educational. The release millions of these baby salmon who grow up to be caught by the local fisherman. The ones who escape capture return here to spawn and complete the cycle. There were salmon everywhere- leaping, swimming at the surface and racing away from our lures. As the guys at the farm said- you basically have to snag them as they weren’t biting. We didn’t catch any but we weren’t too sad about it when we found out they were mostly chums. The local bears love to stop by the weir and scoop up the salmon trying to go up the swim ladders, especially when the ladders are closed! Talk about easy pickings. Fynn was getting super fussy on shore to go home so we left before we saw the bears come down. Of course by the time we stopped by to say hi to the counter (he literally stands there and counts how many fish enter the netted off bay) the bears were at the weir. Oh darn, the life with kiddos… We left our prawn trap down over night and stopped by Sand Beach to check our crab trap – one BIG GUY. He measured 8 inches across and made a delicious dinner. Fynn is a fan and can happily chow down on just about the whole crab.

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Today was a long day of motoring. After sailing around the pacific, this motoring is getting old FAST! After about 4 hours we stopped at shoal for lunch and dropped the crab trap. Hauled it up on our way out and it had two keepers- that’s a productive lunch break! We arrived in Baranoff around 2 pm and were lucky to snag a spot on the dock. Our stay there became as magical as promised. We headed for the natural hot spring first- and they are HOT! Fynn and I had a soak but it was too hot for her. A bit of exploring and we found a small pool of river water, conveniently beside a broken pipe that should have been transporting hot water to the houses on the beach. I was able to divert the pipe into the cold water and shortly it was warm enough to play in. Even Bowen got to go in!

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Climbing to the Springs

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Picture Perfect

For dinner we roasted sausages on the beach fire. That night after the kids were in bed I headed up to the tub at the bath house to soak in the tranquility of the long Alaskan nights, and reflect on how lucky we are to be here. Of course I also washed the laundry and marvelled at how easy it was with unlimited hot water.

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Sausages on the fire

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Love and Hugs

The next morning the sun was shining. It was glorious. The temperature rose quickly and was soon in the 20s. Kolby used the unlimited water hose at the dock to wash the grime of travel off Asunto. She certainly looked proud of herself after that- we didn’t have the heart to tell her she was still pretty dirty… Adding Bowen to our travels has really made it hard to keep up with the cleaning. Anyway, Fynn and Bowen and I walked the boardwalk, devouring salmon berries. We even found some the size of golfballs! That afternoon we hiked to the lake were we met a nice family from Sitka. Fynn was so happy to play with the boys.

Today was Bowen’s bath day and he loved it. I filled the tub and we basically swam in the lukewarm water. He floated on his back and kicked on his tummy and went right under the water – no problem! That night the boaters mingled and swapped stories on the dock while the kids ran wild way past there bed time. The following morning it was hard to leave but leave we must- right after Fynn had a bath and got good and clean!

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So I was uploading my blog posts from my phone when suddenly the screen went sepia then black – never to turn on again. And I hate rewriting blogposts. The first post that I lost was about our perfect day at Sinitsin Cove.  The anchorage felt like home, just a bit colder than we are used to cruising in. As we headed to the gravel beach at the head of the bay the sun came out. Fynn delighted in exploring the rocks and the little creek that meandered through the small meadow. As the sun warmed our backs Fynn stripped down to no shirt and ate berries straight off the bush. Bowen and I headed home to start on dinner and Fynn and Kolby went out to catch dinner. When they came zooming back 45 minutes later I figured Fynn was done and it would be veggies for dinner! Nope! Kolby had clipped the painter to the last piece of kelp and drifted off the end of the kelp bed and it didn’t take much to catch the rock fish!

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We planned to leave the docks last night but when Kolby came home at 11 pm we were just too tired. And we had been going non stop for the last five days. 

We woke up to a glorious sunny day and puttered over to the fuel dock. 
We waited for the office to open amongst the other fish boats. I bet it is safe to say that everyone fishes in Sitka. 
We motored swirly with the tide pushing us along through Peril Straight and slowed down to trawl for a salmon for the last hour before our anchorage. No luck.  We tucked into the little bay and explored the beach (after we had sent out a few blasts on the air horn to signal our arrival to any bears in the area). The eastern corner was picturesque with a little stream running though a meadow. As the sun beat down on our backs we stripped off layer and collected a bucket of blueberries. Fynn loved it. Stomping around in her boots with her tee shirt off she looked like quite the west coast girl. 
Kolby and Fynn headed out to jig for a rockfish for dinner while Bowen and I started on the roasted potatoes. Kolby clipped the painter on to the last piece of kelp and the wind pushed him 10 feet back of the kelp bed. When they came racing back 40 minutes later I assumed Fynn had enough of it and they were fish less and it would be salad for dinner. Nope! Two good sized fish in a matter of minutes. I went to work madly filleting as hungry kids protested in the background. Fynn literally ate half her dinner before falling asleep in her seat, her head on Kolby’s shoulder. With both kids asleep before eight we enjoyed the sun on the foredeck (while wearing our down jackets) before tackling the huge mess of the boat. What a day! 
It feels good to be here. The familiarity is comforting and it is surprisingly nice to feel chilly. Living in the tropics was exhausting and sweaty! The long days are amazing too, but they are a bit confusing- 6 pm is a bright as 2 pm and it is really only darkish for 4 hours from 12-4.  Although I am starting to adapt to that too!
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It hasn’t quite been all boat jobs and laundry and groceries and cleaning…
We have had time to visit the Sitka National Forest, where Fynn became a junior ranger! We also have walked the town, which is full of cute shops and fishing things!  We took in the local Tginglit dance show and search out salmon berries. Sitka is a lovely small town, and the cloudy rainy weather doesn’t dimish it’s appeal but somehow adds to it. It shard to leave but leave we must. 
   

     

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Since we have landed in Sitka it has been non stop repairs to get Asunto ready to go.  Here is a quick list of what we have been up to:

1) replaced the engine alternator
2) installed a new regulator to replace the 20 year one one which had failed
3) installed a secondary water pump for the hydraulic diesel heater as the primary pump is failing 
4) built a new bracket to install a replacement autopilot (used, purchased off eBay for $500) which had a different footprint
5) cleaned and reorganized the boat after a very wet passage
6) went up the mast to retrieve the failed wind instrument
Sadly it was more bad news at the top of the mast. When Kolby returned to the deck he asked me if I wanted the bad news or the bad news…. Never a good sign. Simply put the forestay has started to separate from the XXX. Frankly this news was somewhat terrifying for us as we reflected on what might have happened had the forestay come down. It is possible that she may have demasted…. And to think they had been sailing the entire way on the Genoa. We both feel incredibly grateful that she made it safely to Sitka. So for now there is no sailing this ship as we deliberate on how to make these repairs. 
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It took a while to navigate into the harbour and then find a slip but we are officially at Sitka and tied up 1630 local time on June 26.


The habour is absolutilel packed and clearly built for the salmon trolling fleet out here. There are trollers of all different shapes and sizes, including sailboats that have been rigged up with trolling gear. 

There are not many slips for our length of boat but we found a 100’ end tie that we are sharing with another 50’ boat.

We are going to shower and head off for dinner before exploring the town a little. 

Since we are a Canadian vessel we need to check in with Customs at Sitka. Kristine called ahead yesterday to let them know we were coming and I called today. What a great process. The officer was super nice and had no problem if the guys were gone when he got there as everyone has early flights tomorrow. Since we are arriving from a US port there is no clearance formality, but they do track our vessel through SE Alaska via our cruising permit number and we are required to check into the other ports we visit. If the rest of the check ins are as easy as this it will be a very refreshing experience. 

Thanks to everyone who has been following along on our trip. It was very surreal arriving back into the cold waters of the North Pacific and although we still have a couple months left and we are still in Alaska, it sure feels good to be sailing again amongst the mountains and forests!
What an exciting morning. We finally have seen landfall. Kevin thinks he saw the mountains for about 10 minutes this morning from about 55 miles out. He is the only one who saw them and it has been foggy and cloudy on the horizon but we know we are close and only getting closer. 

As of yesterday at about noon it started to look as if we might make it to Sitka on Sunday June 26 instead of the earlier anticipated 27th. I decided to maintain an average speed over 6 kts which meant we would have run the engine and motor sail even if we were sailing at 5 kts.

Although motor sailing when there is a moderate breeze out is a pain it paid off as we’ll arrive it Sitka this afternoon!

When I got on shift at 6 am, Kevin had been sailing for 2 hours with the motor on and the wind kept building. I decided to shake out the reefed headsail and try to claw back some miles. I was able to hand steer my two hours and rack up 15.2 miles. 

Jed came on after me and clocked 16 miles, which Ron then followed up with another 16 mile run, giving us 171 miles for the 24 hour run. What a great time to have a huge day as we are now only 20 miles from Sitka at noon on the 26th.

I tried all day to get the DC motor of the autopilot working properly to no avail.


The motor works well when it is running, but it does not start every time. We though initially that the brushes were bad and I tried to clean them up, however the more I play with the brushes, the less confident I am that they are the real problem.

Ron and I tried metering the different windings but we both agree that the scale on the meter is just not accurate for what we are doing. We didn’t see any obvious shorts, but then again I am not 100% sure what I should be looking for. I’m just really glad we have gotten this far and have put a good 1000 miles on a number of field repairs and I can’t complain about that. 

The wind has flipped around and is blowing from the south. This change was forecasted and should allow us to drive straight into Sitka on a beam reach. I just hope it holds until we arrive. 

Our noon to noon run was at 153 miles which is pretty respectable considering we don’t have the full use of the main. We have been trying to use a little of the main which equates to about a double reef, but only to really balance the boat, we are not getting that many more miles because of it.