Loreto is a real gem of a town. The plaza around the old cathedral is immaculate, with tree branches intertwining to create a canopy of shade.The cafe’s catered to locals and gringos alike and most were reasonably priced.
The tacos at Del Ray are not be be missed. We did most of our shopping at the Leys, but also stopped by the Pescador for those exciting gringo finds, like brown sugar. Across the street from the Pescador is a gulf food store with a fantastic selection of nuts and spices and even chocolate chips. While in the Loreto area we visited the town several times, once from Puerto Escondido in a taxi ($900 pesos round trip), once via dinghy while we were anchored in Los Coronados, twice when we had a rental car to pick up and drop of parents that were visiting and finally by car when we drove up from La Paz. Each time we rented a car from Fox rentals. The economy sized car cost us(in USD) $8/day plus $20 (for the basic mexican insurance, can’t get out of this) and $20 to have the car dropped off and picked up from Puerto Escondido.
Hiking in Bahia Conception is absolutely lovely. We loved our time here at every anchorage, especially Isla Reqeson. The pictures say it all.
We had packed up that morning, all set to hitchhike into Mulege to check it out. I had even made a sign. We had just landed on the beach when we saw another little playing in the water. Fynn was pretty excited to find another friend her age – turns out little Vega was only 4 days older than Fynn! Admittantly we were pretty happy to meet some other adults our age too. We had a great day with this family- they are travelling to Panama in the VW Westfalia – a family of kindred spirits. You can visit their awesome blog at tribehoppers.com Together we visited Mulege, enjoyed a feast of clams and took a wild ride in the dinghy out to Ilsa Coyote.
The first morning out we came across hundred of dolphins fishing bait balls. We puttered right up with them and Kolby jumped in the water. The visibility was so poor her couldn’t see them, despite there being only 10-15 feet or less away, but he sure could here them! He said it sounded like an orchestra under water. As we watched the scene we began to understand it. The bait ball could move faster than the dolphins, and would eventually escape their feeding. However the birds would find them again first and dozens of birds would drop hundreds of feet from the sky in a gravity defying dive to snatch a fish. It wouldn’t take long before the dolphins had raced over and started feeding, causing the birds to slowly stop their dives. Then the whole cycle would start over again. It was memorizing to watch.
San Juanico (Sea of Cortez) – Yes there are two San Juanico’s one on the outside of the Baja and one on the inside. We hunkered down here to lick our wounds a bit. We went for a nice hike and met some guys from Quebec on a small sailboat called Two Step. He had purchased it recently in San Carlos and was sailing the Sea of Cortez with his girlfriend and two friends without much money or much of a plan. Pretty awesome. When we met them they were on the beach smoking the Roostertail fish they had caught as they didn’t run their fridge to save their batteries. We gave them about 15 gallons of fresh water and they happily gave us some fish. A good deal all around as Kolby hadn’t been spear fishing for a while.
I have been doing a lot of baking- bread, muffins, cookies, granola bars… Fynn loves to help – but the galley gets a bit messy!
The upside of all this wind – and I’m not sure it I have made it clear, but we regularly have seen 20 knots for days before the wind settles for a day or two – is that we are able to fly our kite off the back. Enjoy these photos from the sky of Caleta Partida and Aqua Verde
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